Who knew Lyon was so hilly? I guess everyone but me

Have you ever just put your finger on a map and gone wherever it landed? That’s exactly how I ended up in Lyon. Sure, I’d heard of the city, but did I do any research? Nope. Hello, calf muscles sent from the gods above.

When things went south in Paris I decided to go southeast. I wanted somewhere new and fast. After hardly sleeping, nearly losing all my clothes to an angry French washing machine and walking to the train station at the crack of dawn, I finally boarded a train to Lyon.

Half dazed and half asleep, I watched the scenery fly by and started to gather myself. Leaving that flat felt like pure relief. Traveling alone can be scary but somehow, I felt safer than when I was with him.

In Lyon, I grabbed my bags and headed for the exit, Sortie, for anyone new here. I clutched my things tightly since the only thing I was prepared for on this journey was getting pickpocketed.

Stepping outside, the sun hit my skin immediately. The area felt urban, with a huge mall across the way. For the first time in a while, I noticed everyone smiling and felt at ease. Trying desperately not to look like a lost tourist, I navigated to the buses only to wait thirty minutes and discover the line wasn’t running that day. August in France, am I right?

Back at the train station I figured it out and hopped on the next train. Lyon turned out to be much easier to navigate than Paris. At my stop I checked Google Maps for the hostel and got two options: wait for a bus or walk uphill about half a mile. I chose to walk and immediately regretted it. Lugging my overpacked rolling suitcase up stairs, narrow passageways and hills that would make a goat cry, I arrived drenched in sweat, my carefully planned outfit ruined.

When I reached the hostel, greeted by funky neon lights and equally sweaty patrons, I waited to check in, chugging lemon water and connecting to wifi to figure out dinner. Thanks to Boris on Fork, I found an Italian restaurant by Place des Terreaux that sounded perfect.

My hostel room was basically a black coffin with a curtain for a door, so I decided to explore the town first. I wandered past shops, tattoo parlors and vintage thrift stores, finally making it to dinner with my book and charger in tow. The restaurant was tiny but magical, like a cave carved just for diners. I resolved to enjoy the meal fully.

I ordered wine, truffle pasta and molten chocolate cake, and for hours I just soaked it in. Reading Beautiful Animals by Lawrence Osborne about a girl and her friend caught up in murder on a Greek island, I got lost in the story.

Eventually I noticed a friendly face watching me. He approached, apologized, and asked if I spoke English. Turns out he didn’t speak French but seeing me so absorbed in a book made his day. He even turned the music down so I could read in peace.

By the end of the meal I offered to exchange contacts and became friends with him. I left that restaurant smiling, listening to the nearby fountain, forgetting the fear of traveling alone and instead seeing the opportunity of all the friends I’d yet to make. 

Next
Next

French washing machines and stupid, stinky boys